
Question:
My name is Irfan I am from Karachi, I wanted to do a trek of Concordia this year but my initial findings over internet discouraged me financially and logistically, the organised tour operators are charging in range of USD 2,000 I only found one (Baltistan tour) who is willing to take me and my wife for Rs.80,000 per person, he will provide a group of 7 porters and guide. Some tour operators suggested that if one organizes porters and guides on his own then they can give him a real tough time especially when they find out that they are taking first timers and would try to cheat you in every way possible and inexperienced guides can be a serious threat as your life is at a higher risk when your are up in mountains.
I felt so unprepared both in terms of knowledge and finances that now I am charting out a plan B, which involves flying into Skardu by air and then travel across deosai towards Gilgit and then approach Kaghan valley from North instead of travelling on KKH, the well know route is from Babusar Pass, which opens in July, what other alternate routes are available if you find out that Babusar is closed,
I have heard that there is another route known as batogah pass which starts from inside of Chilas and takes you to Gitidas, and yet another one from Deosai to Kaghan valley, have anybody heard of these routes before what would be the road conditions like. If Babusar is closed would u find these routes also closed, what about security issues in terms of wildlife, landslides, robbery etc please forgive my ignorance but I take it that these are not that well known routes because of some reasons what would they be.
I want to do this tour in 10 days is it really possible to enjoy all of it or would it be like a roller coaster ride, I appreciate that all of these places are worth spending weeks or may be months but I really dont want to miss out anything in this short period, however I am looking forward for input from experienced people what to cut off or how to plan everything.
Also when would the best time be to visit these place in terms of avoiding landslides
over to you guys
would really appreciate your help
Irfan
Answers:
Going through tour operators for any trek is generally expensive as they have to keep their margin and all. People who manage the concordia trek by themselves are generally able to manage it in less than half of the lowest that has been quoted to you (and of course the cost is always subjective). However, nobody will recommend you to do that trek with your wife without any prior trekking experience. You have made the right decision to start thinking about plan B. I will recommend you to include some short trek in the itinerary as well like Dudipat that will help you evaluate yourself for the big ones.
Butogah pass is an alternative to the Babusar. Basharat and his friends explored this along with much of the Northern Pakistan in their Unimog last year. Details can be seen at the link below. If Basharat reads your question himself, he can better guide you with details…
http://www.pakwheels.com/forums/4×4-clubs-off-roaders-suv/143564-team-unimog-punga-2010-elevation-14200ft-via-babusar-sheosar-burzil-minimerg-butogah
Try to wrap up your trip till mid July so as to avoid the rainy season.
Umair
Thank you for the reply and the link, looking forward for some more feedback.
what would u say about the road conditions of Batogah as compared to Babusar in terms of being the alternative of each other, they are very close to each other but still would it make any difference, i mean if u find babusar closed then almost certainly would the batogah also be closed or there is a chance that u might find any of them alternatively open.
I understand that the road conditions are a lot dependent on snow fall and each year it differs, what are the conditions like this year when can u expect the babusar and batogah to open this year, so that I can plan accordingly.
Also is there a (jeepable) road link to Kaghan valley directly from Deosai, on google maps they are showing a road very close to Line of control but not sure to use it even if its inside Pakistan, i presume it must be for defence personal only, or is there a trekking route without taking u back to KKH connecting somewhere from maybe Noorinar pass, how long would it take to trek it and how tough would it be, seems a bit radical but hey I am just a novice dont know what I am talking about.
thanks again
Irfan
The plan B sounds really good but as you said its dependent on Snow Fall, Last year we were unable to cross DeoSai in late July due to heavy Snow and situation is not different this year, Snow fall news from DeoSai kept on coming from Chilam Chowki till April, let’s hope it melts earlier in this season.
Chilas-Butogah-Gitidas is one of the toughest motor-able off-road trek of our North region, most beautiful as well. its not a maintained road and used by locals to supply glacier ice to Chilas from Butogah Top. It was opened prior Babusar last year, let’s see what happens this year. It may look adjacent to Babusar in the maps but it consumes at-least 4-5 additional hours, and I would recommend to do this in a convoy of at-least 3 vehicles so can you help each other if get stuck and start as earlier as possible. From safety and comfort perspective Babusar is recommended, Butogah is a trip of its own!
Also make a Plan C (incase Deosai is closed), you can cover Skardu-Shigar-Khaplu, drive to Gilgit-Hunza-Nagar-Hooper, explore Nultar while coming back from Hunza and then take the flight from Gilgit to Isloo.
Regards
Basharat
thank you for your reply and some really nice suggestions for plan C, in what kind of time frame can this be done are 10 days enough to explore all these areas as per Plan C
I really envy unimog, I feel so tempted to buy one but the diesel prices are really killing these days, needles to say distance from KHI to ISL is about 1600 km one way, I dont know the consumption but I think the diesel could cost almost half the price of the unimog itself. traveling is becoming really expensive these days.
Irfan
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