Author: Asad Mehmood

We, a group of 12, attempted for the Wakhan trek (Karambar Lake  and Darkot) starting on September 10, 2011. Members were:

1- Muhammad Tanweer (Lahore) / Team lead.
2- Talat Saeed (Lahore)
3- Me (Asad Mehmood) (Islamabad)
4- Fahim Awan (Abbotabad)
5- Farhan Khan (Multan)
6- Zain Ul Abedin (Faisalabad)
7- Saeed (Faisalabad)
8- Zahid Ali (Karachi)
9- Muhammad Adeel (Karachi)
10- Adeel Akthar (Karachi)
11- Ameer Hamza (Karachi)
12- Danail Shah (Quetta)

There were first timers and last minute drop-out for this trek too.

The original plan was:
10th September Rawalpindi To Gilgit, on coaster via babusar pass.
11th September Night Stay At Gilgit, (Madina Hotel)
12th September Gilgit to Mitteran dan via Immit (Hiace / Jeep Ride)
13th September Mitteran dan to Wargoth (6~7 hours Trek)
14th September Wargoth to Sokhtra Abad (6 hours Trek)
15th September Sokhtra Abad To Swinj (7~8 hours Trek)
16th September Swinj to Karambar Lake 5 hours Trek)
17th September Around The Karambar
18th September Karambar to Lashker warz (7~8 hours Trek)
19th September Laskher waz to Chikar bc ( 7 Hours)
20th September Chikar to Darkot Base Camp (Fully Day Exertion)
21st September Darkot Base Camp to Rawat
22nd September Rawat To Gilgit (Jeep Ride)
23nd September Departure From Gilgit
24th September Arrival at Rawalpindi / Lahore

Journey on Bus

We started as per the schedule in a very pleasant weather. The weather prediction for the next 7 days was also clear.
Leaving FaizaAbad adda on the night of 10 September, with just 12 on board, on an 18 seater coaster, it looked very pleasant. With gup shap, we had our dinner near Manshera (hotel green hut). Picked Fahim from there and started of. Had some rest / sleep at paras near naran.

Had our lunch at basel (after Naran) and we crossed babusar pass at 11:00 AM on 11th sept. After that it was a long journey on KKH. A day before our departure a political parted called strike. + There was a land sliding before Raikot. We had to wait there for approx. 6 hours. Both (land slide / strike) contributed to result our journey from Islamabad to Gilgit in 31 hours- a delay of at least 7 hours.

We reached Gilgit early morning 3:30 AM (September 12th), had long awaited sleep, but only for 4 hours, because we had to leave early the next morning. As we already informed our booked hotel there, so had no problem at that time of night.

Gilgit To Immit. (Toyota Hiace)

On hiace started of for Immit (Ishkomen valley), covering distance in approx 5 hours, (again had to wait due to land slide) before Immit , our hiace got out with the help of a tractor there, pushing it from the back.

Immit to MitramDan (Jeep)

Booked 3 jeeps from Immit. And started of for MitramdDan. Years back trek used to start from broth (between Immit and MitramDan) but now Jeep goes till MitramDan. Reached MitramDan around sun set. We stayed for night in a local school there. It took approx. 3 hours on jeep covering a distance of 17 km. hired our porters (5) / Guide from there the same night, had a good sleep and a dinner. The owner of jeeps was Abdul Hakeem. Our porters were Haibait Khan (cook), Bulbul Khan, Sarmad Khan, and 3 more.

MitramDan to Yasin Village (trek)

It was first day of our trekking, on a very pleasant weather and on a very smooth trek. Crossing nallah at few points. And wasn’t tough. It was a gradual ascent of approx 300 m and distance of 9 km from MD to Yasin Vallige. We were scheduled to reach Wargoth but instead we decided to stay at yasin village. The reason was that our tents / other items were on donkeys. And they were late. It was already 3 afternoon and we were not able to see them. Donkeys with remaining porters reached before sunset, we established our tents/ kitched tents and enjoyed dinner. It was at night that the wind started to blow with a light shower.

Yasing Village to Sokhtra Abad

As we were behind our desired location, so we woke up very early the next morning. We were required to cover approx. 15 km and ascent of 350 m, crossing Wargoth glacier and the Shuttargurdan. It was a raining day. We started of, and because of rain it wasn’t that pleasant journey / trek. We reached Wargoth and decided to have tea and a bit change of clothes / fire setup, as we were all wet.

At Wargoth porters informed that it won’t be possible for donkeys to cross shutargurdan in this weather (rainy / slippery) with risk of rock fall (in rain only). This area, as described by a trekker last year, in his blog as:

“Shuttargurdan”: . It is the name of the difficult mountain one has to cross with very narrow, steep and scary path. The original path used to go along with the river however in year 2007, glacier blocked the way of the river and there is no apparent way to cross it. One has to be very careful on this narrow path as any wrong step can take one down to thousands of feet down into the river. :: https://dashtnavard.wordpress.com/2010/11/14/along-the-wakhan-corridor/

It was already a stay of 3 + hours at Wargoth in a heavy rain, we were waiting there thinking what to do, that a group of Gujjar porters reached there, coming from Swinj, they informed that it’s a 2nd day of a route they found via a part of chilinji glacier, thus bypassing shuttargurdan. However It involved:

1- Crossing karamber nallah reaching as high as chest at 1 point.

2- Crossing a part of chilinji Glacier, also steep and a slip could result down into river.

3- But Saving time of approx. 3 hours compared to Shuttargurdan side.

My team decided to go with the shutargurdan. Porters had no option but to bypass shutargurdan.

Only I, after discussion with team decided to bypass shutargurdan. My reasons were:

1- Reaching Sokhtra Abad early and establishing tents, as we were already late.
2- I found my self good with water / crossing Nallah and never liked shuttargurdan.
3- No outsider since 2006 had by passed shuttargurdan and I had a chance.

We started off in rain, a minute later we crossed the nallah, one of our donkey couldn’t hold his grip with water pressure and was pushed several feet in water. The items it carried were all wet and were down in water; 2-3 porters reached back and helped the poor donkey crossing the Nallah.

Unfortunately, there was no sign of sun; it was a bad day for trekking. We crossed a part of Chilinji Glacier. Due to rain it was a slippery trek and I slipped at few places.

I reached SokhtraAbad before sunset, established tents and requested cook for soup / dinners. All our items including sleeping bags were wet.

Team continued to reach one by one after sun set.
The last 2 member of my team along with a porter reached around 11 at that night.

Sokhtra Abad (Day 3) Forced Rest Day 1

It was a great camp site with a police check post and a masjid. The policemen there were very helpful. This is a grassy area with steep cliffs all around. With no sign of clear weather, it continued to rain all night. We woke up in hope of sun / to dry our items but in vain. The sun never showed up. All night it rained to such an extent that the water entered in our tents from it base.
Our fellows were not feeling well and I also had numbness in my right hand and feet due a fall the other day. We had no option but to avail a rest day in hope of clear weather.

Sokhtra Abad (Day 4) Forced Rest Day 2

It again continued to rain all night. Any time at night when I woke up for washroom or something, the harmonic sound of rain fall / thunder haunted me with the thought of dropping karomber lake. Early morning, we saw the surrounding mountains around SokhtraAbad, all covered with snow. We still had hope though.

Our chances of reaching karambar were fading. We had a group meeting. As we ran out of rest days. And could not afford that much rain further on trek.

The only chance left was to somehow reach karomber lake and come back via same route. We waited for one more day.

Sokhtra Abad (Day 5) Forced Rest Day 3 / Expedition Ends

The rain continued to play its role in a worst possible manner. It was again a rainy day.

All the local tribes from Swinj and karambar had already started descending. And showed up while crossing skhotraAbad, informing that its 3-4 feets snow on trek after chitiboui.

The bad weather had made some fellows / first timers really frustrated. It was hard for them to accept that it’s over. Some tried to reach chittiboui too. but all were back in an hour or 2.

It was over.

I came back to MatramDan from sokhtraAbad that day. My other team fellows continued as per their pace and stayed at Wargoth the next night.Many tribes were returning down (from karomber / swinj / yasin village)

Some Gujjars were coming from swinj, carring some item on donkes, I never knew at that time that what is that. They were great people with knowledge of each and every area. It was a decent in rain / Nallah crossing / and the thought of not seeing Karomber lake made me sad.

Thinking that what ever Allah does is in the best interest of us all.

With dismal mood, I reached Immit that night. Later learned that all the areas included Gakookh / upper Gilgit had really bad weather all these days.

The locals opened their bad. They hunted Markhors the previous day. Its hunting is banned as it is included in the list of endangered species, but by the time I knew it was too late. Markhor is the national animal of Pakistan – a big goat found in these areas.

They cooked and invited me for the dinner. It was the most delicious dinner / meat I ever had. A life time opportunity. The thing about this trek that I will never forget.

Our team later dispersed at Immit, some planned to reach back to their home, 1 group went to Phanddar / Chitral, and 1 group towards hunza from Gilgit. I decided to reach back with a night stay at Gilgit.

For me, Karomber lake is a still a dream. somehow missed last year and missed this year too.

Lessons:

1- The weather in recent years has changed drastically. It can not be predicted and it may get worse any time.
2- Trekking is not a piece of comfort. At times you may not get food for a day or two. You may be asked to continue to move to reach proper camping site even exhausted.
3- It’s important to have at least 2-3 group meet ups before trek, so that you get to know each other.
4- It’s not only the success of reaching your destination that makes you satisfied. Failure to reach your destination should make to attempt next time / again and again, until you reach there.

I am ready to attempt for Karomber Lake from Chitral side soon (InshaAllah).

Please find the pictures of Wakhan trek here: http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.199733346762968.46192.100001789113564&l=60a665a64a&type=1

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By Salman Baig
email: pride_of_pakistan@yahoo.com

We did Ratti Lake on Eid holidays in Sep 2011

Here is the itinerary.

Departure from Lahore Wed 11:30pm Abdulla travels Ticket price 700Rs.
We reached Manshera at Thursday 6:30 am
We did some shopping as we didn’t carry any food from lahore.
Also we opted for not doing breakfast and left for Naran at around 7:30 sm by a local Hiace. Due to eid, fares were raised and we were charged Rs 250 per head.

We reached Naran at around 12 noon.

That was the worst travel for me as I use to have nausea feeling in these areas and 1-2 vomits is a normal thing for me but I did so many vomits that I even forget the count. Probably it was the first time I was travelling in hiace on manshera to naran road and my seat was the last one too.

Hiace stops near paras for 10-15 mins for tea.

From Naran we were joined by our colleagues and we booked together a jeep. Again due to eid fares were raised. In normal days for Saiful Malook they charge 800Rs but on eid they were charging Rs 2500.

Any ways we booked a jeep for noori basti at Rs 5000. Again as it was Eid so we have to go with the best offer. In normal days you can have jeep at around 3500rs.

We did brunch at Jalkhad. And now finding the guide to rati lake was the issue as those who know were asking too much.

A guide asked us rs 10k till dowarian but we refused and instead took a local as a porter who had absolutely no idea that where ratti galli is.

We hired him at rs 1500 per day. His name is Faisal and you can contact him at Jalkhad as now by moving with us he knows every detail of the trek. He cooks well and doesn’t complain so it was excellent experience with him.

We dropped him at muzaffarabad. I will tell you later that why we did so.

We started journey on jeep towards noori basti. Super fit trekkers can also opt for trekking to noori basti but I always prefer to walk only where vehicle can’t go.

In fitness I rate myself only 4/10 and by super fit I mean somebody whose rating is atleast 7/10 or above (e.g. Omar Javaid, Sohail Sadiq, Nadir Khan, Akram Attari, Mazhar Fareed etc).

Our driver betrayed us and dropped us nearly 2-3 hours before noori basti and due to heavy mist we were not able to realize it.

Any ways it proved to be blessing in disguise for us as we were able make some very beautiful clicks on that part.

Nearly after 2-3 hours of trek at around 8 pm we reached noori basti. Now comes the first real danger for us i.e. Dogs

Dogs started barking at us and there was no way we can move forward. So we stopped and signaled light towards the basti.

After few tries we were noticed and few men from basti came up. They advised us not to camp in basti as their dogs are open in the night.

So they helped us cross the Noori Nar Nala in the night and we camped there.

As soon as we camped the rain picked up and it kept on raining all the night. In the morning rain didn’t took rest so we were left with no choice to start the trek in the rain. It was a mistake but we didn’t have any other choice.

If we stand in noori basti then towards south west side we can see two passes one lead to Noori lake and other lead towards Kala ser.

Kala ser further lead towards Ratti Gali lake.

Some of my friends also call Kala ser lake as Hans Raj lake but we didn’t heard that name hans Raj from any local.

The pass towards left side/South Eastern side lead to Kala Ser.

Once you choose Kala ser pass you again further face two more passes now this time you have to choose the eastern/right side path.

We were lost here and shouted heavily for some one to help us.

At this moment I remembered a Hadees Sharif whose meaning is like that whenever you your lost the way don’t say “Koye hey, koye hey ” but say “Koye hey Allah ka banda joo hamay rasta dekhaye”. Hadees Sharif futher says that by saying that later part Hazrat Khizer (alaihimu’s salam) appear and guide the path to the lost ones.

Anyways by saying that a person do appeared from some where and guided us the path. I don’t go in that detail that he was a normal shepherd or not but he proved to us more than an angel.

He mentioned that we should choose the south eastern path and it just a little ascend then all descend.

After ascending for nearly 1.5 hours we saw a lake towards north eastern side and we were again lost that probably we were misguided (We were wrong).

At this time we were almost 6 hours into the trek and Rain suddenly picked up to get extremely heavy. We took a refuge under a ridge and again started to shout “Koye hey Allah ka banda joo hamay rasta dekhaye”

Nearly after 15 minutes same person who guided us initially appeared from no where.

We requested him to please atleast take us to the point where we can get on by our own as our porter didn’t knew any thing.

He was a kind guy and do took us to the top of the dowarian pass/ Noori top but asked us to quickly descend down because chances are of hail storm and if get started then nothing can help us escape death on the mountain where there was hardly any place to hide.

On descending we saw a beautiful glacier and a part of lake which was the kal sar lake.

We reached kala ser after 8 hours of trek.

My brother who was in a camping trip for the first time started shivering badly. We quickly camped there. Except for our upper part we were all wet.

Even our Parka Trouser (Made of Goretex) allowed entering water. Our shoes were wet, mattress, rucksack, sleeping bag (partially) were wet.

We quickly boiled some water and gave to my brother whose shivering was not stopping even after going into a sleeping bag having -40 degree tolerance.

It was tough night as wet mattress were making sleeping bags further wet. Worst case scenario was with our group lead whose sleeping bag was extremely wet. Our sleeping bags were protected to some extent due to different exterior but his sleeping bag was in really bad condition but any ways he still went into it because there was no other choice.

After couple of hours my brother shivering stopped but mine started. Issue was that our reserved clothes were also wet and we all were in the legging with a partial wet flees jacket/upper.

Adding to our troubles was our wet camp. That was the tough night but with the help of Almighty Allah we went through it.

Early in the morning we left kala ser. To our surprise there was a basti just after 15-30 minutes to kala ser lake. I wish we could have known that earlier.

Trek leaving the basti was the toughest part in terms of trekking. It was all covered with goats shit and wherever you place foot it result in sliding. Any ways we crossed it without any injury.

Here we did another mistake. We kept on descending and later we again have to make an ascend for ratti gali.

Nearly after 3 hours after leaving the kala ser we reached ratti gali main lake. We camped there.

Locals were excellent to us. They offered us tea, milk, bread. We refused but they insisted to atleast have something.

They brought us some milk. Camp on lake should not be done if you are short of days. But we were so much astonished by its beauty that we camped there.

Early in the morning it started to rain again but we left the lake at 5:45 am. Just before leaving I took a cup from the milk which locals provided. And most of you may not believe; but that milk gave me so much strength that I left behind the porter nearly half a mile behind me. That energy lasted for two hours and in those two hours porters didn’t even get a chance to catch me (Remember I rate myself only 4/10 in fitness)

We had some misinformation about that trek because it was extremely long we almost kept on running on it and nearly after 8 hours of descend we reached neelum road. There was one scary point in it that was passing through a snow crevasses. It was the first time I encountered a crevasses so was scared.

Locals treated us very warmly. Most of ask that either we should come to there house for tea or we should not stand here because they are few kilometers from their home and they drop there eyes in shame for not doing any thing for us. Although we were not asking them any help but I would always have the good memories of this culture brilliance. I wish such people may always live forver but chances for this purity to remain are rare as a jeep trek has been started from Dowarian to ratti gali and once it get completed, hotels will come in. Hotels will bring in the race of money and race of money destroy these culture values. Locals congratulated us and asked to give some alms on return because at this time trekking should not be done in that area as its season of hail storm and it can easily kill any one. That’s why we took our porter to Muzaffarabad.

Any ways after 8 hours of trek at 2 pm we reached dowarian. We were not even able to get our jackets off that bus arrived and we boarded on its roof top (250 rs per head for Muzaffarbad). Within few minutes half of my blood was evaporated as it was a really scary ride along with the river.

Indian occupied Kashmir is along with and at one point I could easily see some Indian soldiers and Pakistani soldier in their respective Morchas. At another point saw some Indian soldiers playing volley ball. It was very strange feeling which I can’t really put in the words. In some part some locals mentioned that not to point fingers towards there morchas or take photo as condition is tense in that area due to killing of some 12 Pakistani Soliders by Indian Army and some rumors that Pakistani Soldiers also caused heavy destruction on enemies. But regardless of it what our lead did by pointing towards the Indian side, I simply can’t forget that actions.

Bus stops at a place called lawat for 15 mins you can make PTCL call from there. Lawat is just 4 km ahead of dowarian.

On bus I asked a local by pointing at a peak that is it in Pakistan? He said its in Azad Kashmir. We said it’s the same. He didn’t replied further. Similar answer was also given to us by a youth at some other point on some other issue. Although on paper that was perfectly correct but it forced us to unintentionally wait for the board where we can read “Ihtamam e Hadood Azad Kashmir”

We reached Muzaffarbad at 8 pm.

We rided on coaster but after 30 mins he said passengers are on low so he is not going. We boarded on a Hiace (200rs per head for Pindi). Which moved here & there for 2-3 times to get packed up. Anyways it left muzafarabad at around 9:30 and via Kohla – muree we reached faizabad at 1:45 am we took tickets from skyways which left Islamabad at 2:45 and we reached Lahore at 7:45 am.

Overall that trip was so brilliant and beautiful that if you ask me to imagine a more beautiful place then that then I simply can’t do it.

More images of the trip can be found here: https://picasaweb.google.com/105286879836851286683/RatiiGalli?authkey=Gv1sRgCN2t642a7e-3eg

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Dudipat, a beautiful lake ahead of Naran., that have elevation of about 12000 to 13000 ft.

We (in a group of 11) recently trek to the beautiful lake Dudipat in Northern Pakistan. (Watch Videos and Pictures in bottom)

Trip  Tag Line: Jul o Jul :)

Trek Route:

• Lahore to Islamabad (meeting point of team) to Naran
• Night stay at Naran
• Early Morning Jeep Trek to Basil (about 2 hours from Naran)
• Start trekking from Basil at 10:00 am
• After a long trek reached ‘Mulla Ki Basti’ at 5:00pm (7 hours of trekking)
• Next morning trek to Lake Dudipat, that is further on 45 minutes trek (that took me 1:30 hours)
• Spend some time on Semi-Frozen Dudipat lake, its June 2011, and lake is mostly frozen
• Trek back to Basil, in about 5-6 hours
• Then back to Naran from Basil
• Spent night at Naran
• Next Day, back to Islamabad and then to Lahore.

Chapli Kabab from Abbotabad, while its raining, its the most delicious lunch of the trip.

Beauty of Basil

Crossing River Kunhar at Basil

Dudipat Trekkers

Lake Dudipat, mostly frozen

Guess Who?

See more Pictures Below

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By Salman Baig

On last weekend we attempted Musa ka Musalla. It was nice but an added day or two would made it awesome (we had 3 days) so I thought If now I have to plan for Musa ka Musalla from Munda Gucha side what would I do. Please note that the trekking time is given with respect to a trekker below average fitness so they might sound too much.

Friday Night 11:00 pm departure from Lahore through Rahber travels to Manshera (Price 600 rs)

Saturday Morning 6:30 am arrival at Manshera

6:30 – 7:30 BreakFast

7:30 departure for Munda Gucha through Local transport.

(Take four seats if you are three people and 8 if you six people so as you can stay relax; we hired a taxi it took rs 1000 to Munda Gucha and it took us around 2hours and 30 mins to reach Munda Gucha)  local transport charge rs 100 per seat

10:30 take Jeep to Jacha (We trekked here; but I always believe trek only at place where vehicles can’t go)

Their is an advantage if you decide to trek from Munda Gucha (That advantage only get disclosed to us on return) at this place you can take a route called as “sarak” i.e. road. although there is nothing like road its just a route (But we were stupid enough to think that it would be a metalled road and we cud run on it ) . The sarak route is relatively less dangerous whereas other route has atleast 2 very dangerous points which should be crossed with ropes, we didn’t carried ropes so crossed them without but that was really scary especially for the little fat person.

11:30/12:00 start trek to Dore

2:00 pm you will reach Dore. There are two hotels in Dore and you can have food at price of rs 100 per head. (Please don’t use camera there without permission; we were not allowed to take pics of even animals at that place. Actually local people might not have the issue but many people with goats come here and they are bit reluctant)

As its first day and you might be tired due to overnight journey so you may stay there other wise you can keep moving and camp at baki or preferably at first “Maidan” (there are three places called maidan there)

From Dore It will take around 90 minutes to baki and 2-3 hours to first maidan. Please note its all ascend from dore onward so you must plan according to your fitness

Sunday Night: Second day camp at bara maidan (if you are unconcerned by leaves) or preferably at galli (the base camp for MKM)

From dore to galli it will take around 9 hours and around 6 hours to bara maidan. (I again repeat these time estimates are given with respect to a trekker below average fitness level/beginner)

At gali there is a mosque you can also stay there if no other party has occupied it. Water is available at gali

Monday Morning: Hike towards Musa ka Musalla; It took me 6 hours to reach at top whereas there were guys who reached in about 3 hours time. Local people do it in 2 hours.

Monday Night: Camp at galli.

Tuesday Morning: Start with first light and in about 8-10 hours time you will be at Munda Gucha (It’s almost all descend except for a little hike for sarak from dore). You must plan like that you will reach munda gucha atleast four hours before sun set. Take a van from munda gucha and reach Manshera or shinkiari (To shinkiari fare is just 80rs and from shinkiari to manshera fare is just 20 rs. Drivers of Munda gucha are bit reluctant to go to mansehra directly so you might have the only option to go to shinkiari)

We reached munda Gucha at around 11: 00 pm in night and Local People didn’t allowed us to go due to doubts over security.

I heard so many stories that people will be very bad and misleading but Alhamdullilah who so ever we met was so nice that it’s a life remembering experience.

If you need a portar/guide contact sadique. He lives near Mosque in Munda Gucha. He is a great man & helped us beyond the call of his duty. The agreed amount of him was RS2500 for whole trek. Although we paid him more due to his great help and things beyond we agreed with him. This is his picture on the right.

Please note that no mobile network work in whole trek except for the last leap to Musa ka Musalla. And only phone there is PTCL Vwireless

Although all the people we met were helpful beyond our imagination but more than one person told us to be careful from people of Jacha & Sacha and don’t talk much with them. (Sacha coem in way between Manshera to Munda Gucha)

Enjoy this heaven.

You can see Trip pictures here.

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Previous weekend did a short weekend trek (to warm up), from Thandianee to Bairan Gali on the way to Dagri Bangla. First my plan was to go alone, but on last day 2 of my cousins joined me (Ali, Kamil), another old friend Yawar who is in Lahore these days, also first try to join in but on last minute had a call from office, so had to drop.

Actual plan was to start from Thandianee and reach Nathia Gali via Bairan Gali -> Dagri Bangla -> Miranjani -> Nathia Gali. But due to an emergency meeting notification on our first night stay we have to keep it shorten and return to Lahore. Its was also only a warmup to start this season.

Started from Lahore to Thandianee: 700 Pak Rupee to reach Abbottabad from Lahore, and 100 Pak Rupee per head for car ride to Thandianee top. Completed this journey mostly in night and reached Thandianee at 8:10 am

There is a small downhill trek leading from back of the Thandianee resthouse, leads to a road junction, where there is a small jeep trek, leading in front of you from the metal road. That is an old jeep trek to Bairan Gali that is not commonly in use now.

This trek has to take about 4 hours to reach Bairan Gali, we took 5+ hours (as we go slow, while enjoying the beauty) and reach around 2:00 pm at Bairan Gali, and to our surprise Barian Gali shops have electricity and all usual day hold items are available, we enjoyed drinks and enjoyed a custom made ice lolly at a local shop. (there are about 3-4 main shops there)

From there you will find 3 paths, to the right the path is another jeep trek leading towards Abbotabad, and we came to know that a jeep leaves from there to Abbottabad every morning before 6am only, no public jeep available after that. and trek to the left leads towards Muzaffarabad and a steep trek in front leading towards Dagri Bangla (to Nathaia Gali).

Locals at Bairan Gali are very youthful, helpful and energetic their usual activities of their young’s are playing different games all the time, these are very lovely and supporting people, we spent some time with them, and then decide to leave from there towards Dagri Bangla, as we do not want to travle in night and it is still about 4 to 5 hours uphill trek further to Dagri Bangla. We decided to camp at first fresh water drain (Nala) on our way, a local guide us its way (as it is not on the usual trek to Dagri Bangal), we reached there and found a beautiful locals made pond at the Nala, I decided to camp there for the night.

We camped there, enjoyed fresh water bath and have fun chatting with local children and watching them playing cricket in the woods on slopes, no one  can imagine if somebody can play cricket there, but they are really good at it on the slopes, and we came to know that there is a cricket tournament also organized in that district.

Later some local came to us and warn us that these woods have lions and lions has been seen here at our camp location on times in night, they offered us to stay at their home nearby, and also bring us hot tea. We decided to stay  at camp (to meet Mr. Lion at night :) not really wanted, but people say it does not hurt human, but surely its dangerous), for precaution we also place all our food items in a big bag and placed that outside camp. But the night went without any activity :)

Forgot to mention that during our bath, we called home and one of my cousin get an emergency meeting call (thats important for his career) so we all decide to go back to Bairan Gali village early morning and try  to catch the local jeep at 6am and we did that.

Enjoy our jeep ride back to Abbottabad and from there back to Lahore in time on Sunday evening.

Below are some pictures from the trip.

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Question:

My name is Irfan I am from Karachi, I wanted to do a trek of Concordia this year but my initial findings over internet discouraged me financially and logistically, the organised tour operators are charging in range of USD 2,000 I only found one (Baltistan tour) who is willing to take me and my wife for Rs.80,000 per person, he will provide a group of 7 porters and guide. Some tour operators suggested that if one organizes porters and guides on his own then they can give him a real tough time especially when they find out that they are taking first timers and would try to cheat you in every way possible and inexperienced guides can be a serious threat as your life is at a higher risk when your are up in mountains.

I felt so unprepared both in terms of knowledge and finances that now I am charting out a plan B, which involves flying into Skardu by air and then travel across deosai towards Gilgit and then approach Kaghan valley from North instead of travelling on KKH, the well know route is from Babusar Pass, which opens in July, what other alternate routes are available if you find out that Babusar is closed,

I have heard that there is another route known as batogah pass which starts from inside of Chilas and takes you to Gitidas, and yet another one from Deosai to Kaghan valley, have anybody heard of these routes before what would be the road conditions like. If Babusar is closed would u find these routes also closed, what about security issues in terms of wildlife, landslides, robbery etc please forgive my ignorance but I take it that these are not that well known routes because of some reasons what would they be.

I want to do this tour in 10 days is it really possible to enjoy all of it or would it be like a roller coaster ride, I appreciate that all of these places are worth spending weeks or may be months but I really dont want to miss out anything in this short period, however I am looking forward for input from experienced people what to cut off or how to plan everything.

Also when would the best time be to visit these place in terms of avoiding landslides

over to you guys

would really appreciate your help

Irfan

Answers:

Going through tour operators for any trek is generally expensive as they have to keep their margin and all. People who manage the concordia trek by themselves are generally able to manage it in less than half of the lowest that has been quoted to you (and of course the cost is always subjective). However, nobody will recommend you to do that trek with your wife without any prior trekking experience. You have made the right decision to start thinking about plan B. I will recommend you to include some short trek in the itinerary as well like Dudipat that will help you evaluate yourself for the big ones.

Butogah pass is an alternative to the Babusar. Basharat and his friends explored this along with much of the Northern Pakistan in their Unimog last year. Details can be seen at the link below. If Basharat reads your question himself, he can better guide you with details…

http://www.pakwheels.com/forums/4×4-clubs-off-roaders-suv/143564-team-unimog-punga-2010-elevation-14200ft-via-babusar-sheosar-burzil-minimerg-butogah

Try to wrap up your trip till mid July so as to avoid the rainy season.

Umair

Thank you for the reply and the link, looking forward for some more feedback.

what would u say about the road conditions of Batogah as compared to Babusar in terms of being the alternative of each other, they are very close to each other but still would it make any difference, i mean if u find babusar closed then almost certainly would the batogah also be closed or there is a chance that u might find any of them alternatively open.

I understand that the road conditions are a lot dependent on snow fall and each year it differs, what are the conditions like this year when can u expect the babusar and batogah to open this year, so that I can plan accordingly.

Also is there a (jeepable) road link to Kaghan valley directly from Deosai, on google maps they are showing a road very close to Line of control but not sure to use it even if its inside Pakistan, i presume it must be for defence personal only, or is there a trekking route without taking u back to KKH connecting somewhere from maybe Noorinar pass, how long would it take to trek it and how tough would it be, seems a bit radical but hey I am just a novice dont know what I am talking about.

thanks again

Irfan

The plan B sounds really good but as you said its dependent on Snow Fall, Last year we were unable to cross DeoSai in late July due to heavy Snow and situation is not different this year, Snow fall news from DeoSai kept on coming from Chilam Chowki till April, let’s hope it melts earlier in this season.

Chilas-Butogah-Gitidas is one of the toughest motor-able off-road trek of our North region, most beautiful as well. its not a maintained road and used by locals to supply glacier ice to Chilas from Butogah Top. It was opened prior Babusar last year, let’s see what happens this year. It may look adjacent to Babusar in the maps but it consumes at-least 4-5 additional hours, and I would recommend to do this in a convoy of at-least 3 vehicles so can you help each other if get stuck and start as earlier as possible. From safety and comfort perspective Babusar is recommended, Butogah is a trip of its own!

Also make a Plan C (incase Deosai is closed), you can cover Skardu-Shigar-Khaplu, drive to Gilgit-Hunza-Nagar-Hooper, explore Nultar while coming back from Hunza and then take the flight from Gilgit to Isloo.

Regards
Basharat

thank you for your reply and some really nice suggestions for plan C, in what kind of time frame can this be done are 10 days enough to explore all these areas as per Plan C

I really envy unimog, I feel so tempted to buy one but the diesel prices are really killing these days, needles to say distance from KHI to ISL is about 1600 km one way, I dont know the consumption but I think the diesel could cost almost half the price of the unimog itself. traveling is becoming really expensive these days.

Irfan

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A Photo Gallery of Trek to Ratti Gali Lake by Asad Mehmood.

Trek starts from Islamabad to Muzaffarabad to Diwarian to Ratti Gali Lake.

You can read complete trek details here: Trek to Dawarian or Rattigali Lake

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By Umair Hasan

We recently did the Musa ka Musalla trek in Kaghan valley. Musa ka Musalla peak stands at an altitude of 4100m at the junction of Siran and Kaghan valleys. We did the trek from Balakot (Naddi Bangla) side with camping on the lush green meadows of Bagheer(3900m). Fresh water is available here at a short walking distance. From Bagheer, one can reach the top of Musalla in 5-6 hrs via Thandigali to get fascinating panoramic views of the entire area on a clear day.

We have identified 4 different approaches for Musa ka Musalla from where it can be accessed…

1. From Mandakuch/Jacha village. One can reach here through Mansehra/Shinkiari. The trek to the top takes 7-8 hours from there.

2. From Naddi Bangla. One can reach here from Balakot on a jeep road. From here one can take a) Bagheer meadows route towards Northeast of Naddi Bangla b) Maidan route towards Northwest. Both the approaches converge at Thandigali where one can also camp.

3. From Kund Bangla / Shaheed Pani. There are forest rest houses on both the places and they can be reached via Masehra/Shinkiari. This is the longest path but is less hectic in terms of ascend.

4. From Sharan. It can be reached through Paras. This is the most difficult option in terms of steepness.

Some of the trek pictures are below

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For years after I kept this honour for myself. Some friends attempted, but bad weather prevented them from crossing the high pass that has singularly bizarre ice formations around its crest. I, for example, encountered a huge cornice just below the crest on the north side. It was like the hood of a titanic cobra rising some sixty metres above a jagged icefall. We (my Shimshal guide and porter and I) were lucky the cornice did not snap sending us crashing to a horrid end in the icefall.

On our first day out, as Yahya Beg, my guide, and I neared the encampment of Pust Furzen (Lower Birches), we saw a laden porter coming up the shingle slope.

It turned out that Jawad was no ordinary hill walker, too. He had authored a book in Urdu about his travels in Kashmir. I have placed this work on my ‘must read’ list and it shall soon be taken care of. We chatted and my television documentaries came up for discussion. Jawad asked if it was true that Alexander the Macedonian was killed by a Multani arrow. Multanis are laid back, I said, and their arrows must have the same trait. Alexander did take a shot in the right side of his chest when he scaled the wall of Multan fort. But though his lung was punctured, he recovered and led his army successfully through Sindh and the Makran desert, across Persia to Babylon. If it was the arrow in Multan then it worked like a typically Multani taking four years to do what could have been accomplished instantly.

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Broghill pass, one of the safe and beautiful heaven on earth, where nature still live in its pure conditions. Situated on Pakistan side of Wakhan Border of Pakistan and Afghanistan.

A hard to reach but beauty rich area, it is closed for around 7 months of the  year due to heavy  snow conditions, and even not easy to reach during summer too. Journey starts from Chitral the majestic place itself, located about 245km north-west of  Chitral.

Karomber Lake is one of the beautiful lake located in Broghill Valley.

Best time to visit is in July, when the valley is lush green, anyway this documentary is made in April, Enjoy watching the interesting journey covering local traditions too.

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